We arrived after a long travel day, having dropped our friends at the Naples airport before catching a train from Caserta to Bari. From there, we arranged a private transfer, the easiest and most comfortable way to reach Matera. The drive wound through open countryside before descending into the heart of the city. Seeing Matera appear for the first time felt like stepping into another world.
The city is built vertically, a labyrinth of steep lanes and uneven staircases that wind up and down the hills. From almost anywhere, the views stretch endlessly across the valley. By evening, the stone glows gold, and when the lights come on, Matera looks like a sky full of stars turned inside out.
We chose to stay in the Sassi, the oldest part of town, and found a small hotel facing the valley. Our room was literally carved from stone. The walls were cool to the touch, the lighting soft and warm, and there was a silence that felt ancient and grounding. It was unlike anywhere we’d stayed before.
Once we settled in, we went exploring. Matera invites you to wander. Narrow stairways connect to hidden terraces, doorways open into ancient churches, and every turn reveals a new perspective. We visited one of the small museums that recreate how residents once lived in the caves,complete with tools, furniture, and kitchen items carved right into the rock. It was humbling to see how people made the most of their surroundings, using every inch of stone to survive and thrive.
The Cathedral of Matera, perched high above the Sassi, offered another breathtaking view. Its Romanesque façade gleamed in the afternoon light, and from its steps we could see the entire city unfold below. Around us, modern sculptures and art installations blended into the landscape, adding color and curiosity without ever disturbing the ancient soul of the place.
As evening arrived, the golden hour worked its magic. The light softened, the stones turned amber, and the entire city seemed to glow from within. We found a terrace restaurant overlooking the ravine, ordered a bottle of local wine, and watched as the lights began to twinkle one by one. Dinner was simple and unforgettable: handmade pasta, local cheese, and conversation that lingered well into the night.
The next morning, we woke before sunrise to see the first light spill across the caves. The entire valley turned pink and gold, and the air was still and cool. After breakfast, we wandered once more through the Sassi, stopping for espresso in a small café where locals gathered for their morning routine.
Twenty-four hours in Matera passed far too quickly, but it was enough to fall under its spell. There are cities you visit and cities you feel. Matera is the latter. Ancient, beautiful, and alive with stories, it leaves a mark long after you’ve gone.
“I kept thinking about Carlo Levi’s words, “The future has an ancient heart.” In Matera, they make perfect sense. The city feels eternal, yet alive and evolving. Walking its stone paths, you see how the past and present breathe together.”
—Nurit
